Well folks, I'm in Asia now, trying not to breathe Beijing's smog-polluted air or drink its bacteria-laced water. So far I've survived, though. I've even crossed a busy street and learned the "way to cross" by observing other Chinese. I guess red lights don't really mean you can't Go. If traffic or pedestrians are sparse, no problem. We walk out into the middle of the road and wait for an opening. I feel I might see someone get pulverized by a speeding Hyundai in the next few days. It's only inevitable.
My success story: fending off scores of "tourist hunters" at the airport who wanted me to come with them in a joyride taxi to the city center, Tianeman, and who knows where else. The scam was in the price: 300 RMB. I kept saying no thank you until I found the shuttle bus ticket counter (16 RMB for a trip downtown). Score! But then the bus drops us all off in the middle of nowhere and I was helpless and confused and finally agreed to let some men give me a ride to the Beijing Central train station (they pointed at a minivan; but I ended up climbing into a pedal-power rickshaw). An old man huffed and puffed all the way to where I wanted to go (8 blocks away) for 30 RMB. Then I get out and a man grabs my bag and wheels it 20 paces and expects me to tip him: I hand over 2 RMB and he feels cheated.
Anyway, I'm staying at a fairly cush youth hostel just across the street from the huge central train station. Good thing I brought earplugs! All I plan on doing is sitting around and waiting until my eyes get tired and going to sleep. Tomorrow I will probably just sign up for the package tour of Beijing sights and be done with it. $35 to keep me busy most of the day. I don't think I want to wander around by myself--though I'm perfectly adept at doing so--in order to avoid more people who want to take my money. Of course I'm a moving target in Beijing...the only white boy around.
If I get hungry there's a huge KFC right across the street...
Oh, did I mention Beijing was 100+ degrees today with super humidity? Also, and this is key, a thick layer of smog blanketed everything, leaving dust on the car hoods. And traffic is horrendous. Why did someone think it was a good idea to give one of the most populous countries on Earth enough automobiles for every man, woman, and child?
Frankly, I'm looking forward to getting up to Mongolia. It may be poorer there, but at least it has a nice cool breeze blowing off the Siberia.
You may have noticed this is a mass email. This was done just to let everyone know I made it to China in one piece with no luggage problems yet. In all other cases, please refer to my online journal:
http://fieldnotesmongolia.blogspot.com/
which will be updated about once a week or more.
Take care all, Chuck
Adventure #6.8
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